A Short Winter Climb to Revive Jaded Spirits

After a night out in Penrith and with winter still having its icy grip on the Lake District; what better way to take advantage of a low pressure day than to grab a quick trip up one of the classic little ice climbs around Thirlmere.  I couldn’t track down anyone to come out to play, so it had to be something fairly easy going and quick to access.  This was clearly the excuse I needed to have a look at Launchy Ghyll.  This is one of those under rated mini classics that I’ve been meaning to get round to for years, but had always been tempted by higher places. Launchy Ghyll is rated grade III but is one of those amenable climbs that lulls you into thinking it will be perfectly OK for a quick morning solo.  As Launchy is an SSSI (Site of Special...

South Post Direct: a Winter Climbing Classic

For more years than I care to remember, the Post Face of Creag Meaghaidh has exerted a mixture of fascination and repulsion on me.  Years ago, when I was climbing at a reasonable standard; when I could have dealt with all the classics in reasonable style, I somehow just never got round to those routes.  I squandered much quality winter, in the eighties, scratting about on little miserable crags instead of getting myself north. A couple of years ago I went out with Mike W and we had a crack at Centre Post.  I didn’t have the arms to contemplate the direct pitch, so we beetled off around the old original route, which has a lot to recommend it if you’re not a full on modern ice warrior.  At last the spell had been broken and I had finally got a post...

Gillercombe Buttress Winter – Not Quite!

Went up to Gillercombe today to have a look at its eponymous buttress.   The 3-legged dog boy had given up walking duties for the day to tutor me in the art of scratching about.  As we walked up past a barely frozen white bordered Sour Milk Ghyll, Gillercombe looked “bloomin wonderful” but rather bare on the buttresses of “The Buttress”.  It was a stunning day but clearly the long eyeballed buttress climb wasn’t going to be on: at least not as a proper winter jaunt. Though we were somewhat disappointed, it’s always possible to find something to do.  Sure enough the chimneys and grooves of Grey Knotts Face; or a version of it, saved the day again. Avoiding the letterbox section we took a line to the right up wintriest looking...