Mount Kenya Memories: Rock and Ice on the Equator

Batiaan summit at sunrise after climbing Ice Window route. Viewed from Nelion Many, many moons ago I had aspirations to be a “big time climber”. I’d enjoyed a couple of summers in the Alps, and a trip to The Cordillera Blanca in Peru, with some college friends: where we’d managed to be the first British group up the SW face of Alpamayo. My winter climbing was going reasonably well and I was getting a few new rock routes done in the Lakes with Steve Howe. I was also beginning to think about buying a wee house. Say Goodbye to Your Mortgage Raymond! All that went out of the window when Steve raised the question in a Penrith pub. “Do you fancy a go at the Diamond Couloir on Mt. Kenya?” Ooh yes – says I! Quietly crapping myself! I’d had to grin and bear nearly a...

The Winter Week That Was

Back in February 1983 I had one of the most amazing half-term winter climbing weeks I could ever have dreamed of. Myself and Tony Furniss managed to blag a couple of places on the Eden Valley Mountaineering Club’s booking at the CIC Hut on the Ben. My big dream for the week was that I might feel up to having a crack at Point Five Gully… by the end of the week. The previous winter I’d had my first taste of the classic Grade Vs after being dragged up Vanishing Gully’s lower pitches. I was beginning to dream. And that February half term started out well enough! Being young free and single (i.e. a smelly dirt bag) I got out on the first Saturday, with Phil Rigby, in the Lakes. They were proper winters back then, before we buggered up the atmosphere! We had...

The Case For A Climbing Wall In a Redeveloped Sands Centre

Recently it came to our attention that the new management of the Sands Centre here in Carlisle, were about to push through changes that would see the Sands’ current climbing wall demolished with no plans to replace it in the new facility. For the City’s growing climbing community it represents a real loss. Pete Gunn, has organised a petition through Change.Org to try and get a rethink on this short sighted decision (IMHO). It’s the only decent sized leading wall in North Cumbria and for those living in the Borders. Kendal’s massive wall is 50 miles away and it’s 60 miles to Newcastle the nearest alternative large lead wall. Under Pete and Davina’s stewardship, it’s open to the public 7 days a week and these two...

A Short Winter Climb to Revive Jaded Spirits

After a night out in Penrith and with winter still having its icy grip on the Lake District; what better way to take advantage of a low pressure day than to grab a quick trip up one of the classic little ice climbs around Thirlmere.  I couldn’t track down anyone to come out to play, so it had to be something fairly easy going and quick to access.  This was clearly the excuse I needed to have a look at Launchy Ghyll.  This is one of those under rated mini classics that I’ve been meaning to get round to for years, but had always been tempted by higher places. Launchy Ghyll is rated grade III but is one of those amenable climbs that lulls you into thinking it will be perfectly OK for a quick morning solo.  As Launchy is an SSSI (Site of Special...